December 17, 2011

The Native American Couture, pt. 3: easy sex, radical bodymods & a nominee for Worst Tattoo of 1805.

I've much enjoyed reading The Journals of Lewis and Clark, as anyone whose followed Amicus Curiositatis thus far can pretty easily attest.  But I confess I did have a moment of hesitancy when I started finding in its narrative an increasing number of very casual references to the Native Americans encountered along the way as flatheads.  Particularly as the expedition made its way westward past the Missouri river.  I wondered if this was, more or less, the frontier equivalent of certain pejorative terms - and I am sure I don't need to catalog them for you to get the picture - for other races and cultures based on differences in physical appearance and dress.  Well, old books really are the great repositories of antiquated and sometimes embarrassing social order and language; indeed, ofttimes it is curiosity with these cultural fossils that spark engagement with the old books to begin with.  But I think mostly we want to be turned on more than turned off.  And it was in this spirit I found myself midpage, asking: Hmmm. Really?

So it relieved me considerably to learn -  and it is my pleasure to share - that the term flatheads was actually not being applied to Native Americans in general as a pejorative but instead rather matter-of-factly to a collection of indigenous tribes whose heads were really quite literally and intentionally flattened!  Say whaaat?

Here I am speaking specifically of the native tribes of the Pacific Northwest that Lewis' and Clark's expedition encountered, whose peoples were in the habit of flattening their heads in infancy. The culture actively institutionalized cranial disfiguration as a means to an aesthetic ideal, and they were quite keen on tattooing, as well.  And, mercifully, the term flathead - though of course not in English - was already in common usage before the paleface ever even made the North American scene...

Meriwether Lewis tells all in his observations from March 19, 1806.  (And of course I, not Lewis, put the really compelling bits in boldface, as is increasingly becoming the habit...)

The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs and Wac-ki-a-cums resemble each other as well in their persons and dress  as in their habits and manners.  their complexion is not remarkable, being the usual copper brown of most of the tribes of North America.  they are low in statu[r]e reather diminutive, and illy shapen; poss[ess]ing thick broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs wide mouths thick lips, nose moderately large, fleshey, wide at the extremity with large nostrils, black eyes and black coarse hair.  their eyes are sometimes of a dark yellowish brown the puple black.  the most remarkable trait in their physiognomy is the peculiar flatness and width of forehead which they artificially obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in a state of infancy and from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers.  this is a custom among all the nations we have met with West of the Rocky mountains.  I have observed the heads of many infants, after this singular bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 10 or eleven months, that were not more than two inches thich about the upper edge of the forehead and reather thiner still higher.  from the top of the head to the extremity if the nose is one straight line  this is done in order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they much admire.  this process seems to be continued longer with the female than their mail children, and neither appear to suffer any pain from the operation.  it is from this peculiar form  of the head that  the nations East of the Rocky mountains, call all the nations on this side, except the Aliohtans or snake Indians, by the generic name of Flatheads.

Well how about all of that!?  It certainly makes one wonder what must have been the impetus to get into that sort of habit in the first place.  What are the roots of the tradition?  Was it mythology?  Magic?  Boredom?  I mean, really, what does make someone decide it would be a swell thing to mash their baby's head in a press?

A page from Lewis' and Clark's journals illustrating the flattening process and its result.


I have to think how really odd it must have been to be a member of the expedition at this point - that is to say, a complete outsider - as they traveled among these tribes, by far I think the freakiest people Lewis and Clark were to encounter.  I know I would have had my share of W.T.F. moments, which isn't always a bad thing per se (unless of course you burst out laughing and hurt some one's feelings). And if the head-shaping thing was not enough, apparently the tribes were into some intentional swelling of the legs as well, through some sort of ornamental binding.  Lewis continues on the topic in his entry from above:

The large or apparently swolen legs particularly observable in the women are obtained in great measure by tying a cord tight around the ankle.  their method of squating or resting themselves on their hams which they seem from habit to prefer to sitting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by preventing free circulation of the blood.

I am (lightheartedly) left to wonder if this isn't some sort of indigenous, 19th century equivalent of suffering stilettos for the sake of an attractive effect on the leg.  After all, every culture really does have its aesthetic idiosyncrasies.  (Though I will take a moment to again clarify explicitly that these expressions of body modification were exclusive to these Pacific Northwest tribes - though the title of my post might lead one to believe otherwise.   As far as the title goes, I am using Native American to reference in particular the indigenous peoples encountered in the narrative of The Journals of Lewis and Clark, and I am lumping this post's information in with a series generated around the explorers' observations of the appearance of these tribes during their journey from 1804 to 1806.  I will also clarify that today there is an actual, formally-titled Flathead tribe - who do not intentionally flatten their heads. I am most definitely not writing about them.)



A flathead mother giving her baby the treatment, from 1860. Note the small feet, large legs, and extensive tattooing as well.

So these Native Americans were very different than their European observers, on many levels.  As we see, both groups had radically different ideals of beauty - clearly - and both also prescribed to different ideals in sexual expression.  Not only did the Indians of the Northwest practice forms of body modification, they were also big on tattooing their skin.  In the following passage William Clark touches again on the forced swelling of the legs and the tattooing, and also reveals a little bit about native sexual mores - at least as perceived through the filter of his own, which of course is always the way.  This passage illustrates what I think must be nominated as Worst Tattoo of 1805, and it's also the beginning of a fairly amusing little sexual narrative.  From Clark's journal entry from November 21, 1805:
An old woman & Wife of the Chunnooks came and made a Camp near ours.  She brought with her 6 young Squars (her daughters & nieces) I believe for the purpose of Gratifying the passions of our party and receving for those indugiences Such Small [presents] as She (the old woman) thought proper to accept of.
Those people appear to View Sensuality as a Necessary evel, and do not appear to abhor it as a Crime in the unmarried State.  The young females are fond of the attention of our men and appear to meet the sincere approbation of their friends and connections, for thus obtaining their favors,     the Womin of the Chinnook Nation have handsom faces low and badly made with large legs & thighs which are generally  Swelled from a Stopage of the circulation to the feet (which are Small) by maney Strands of Beeds or curious Strings which are drawn tight around the leg above the ankle,     their legs are also picked [tattooed] with different figures,  I saw on the left arm of a Squar the following letters J. Bowman,   all those are considered by the natives of this quarter as handsom deckerations, and a woman without those deckerations is Considered as among the lower Class   they ware their hair loose hanging over their back and Sholders     maney have blue beeds threaded & hung from different parts of their ears and about ther neck and around their wrists,   their dress otherwise is prosisely like that of the Nation of War ci a cum as already discribed.

A tattoo of "J. Bowman" on your body?  How the hell does one end up with that?!  That's almost as regrettable as Johnny Depp's Winona Forever - especially when one looks at Winona Then and Now.  Well, to be fair in considering the provenance of such a tattoo, the Lewis and Clark expedition was not the first group of white folks these Indians had seen - only the first to come across land from the east.  By the time Lewis and Clark arrived at the Pacific, there was already regular maritime trade between natives and whites along the coast.  The expedition had even considered hopping a ship for the ride back home. 

I guess one can assume that Mr. (or Ms.?) J. Bowman was somehow connected to this coastal commerce.  But, to reference Winona Forever again, was it the mark of love?  Or (and it amuses me to think as much) was this abstract, just another example of a sort of illiterate cross-cultural appropriation - like when the Japanese borrow English words out of any sensible context to lend an international cachet to product packaging. Or vice versa, when Americans sport t-shirts emblazoned with Kanji characters that might translate to either "Peace" or "Ear Wax" for all they really know.  So what did it mean, then, that J. Bowman?  Did it just look cool?

It's also interesting to see reference to Indian class structure, when I think many of us grow up with perceptions of indigenous society as a more egalitarian, destratified thing.  Quite the contrary, really, as - at least in the research I found of someone writing about the Upper Chinook Clackamas, and there is no reason to believe allied tribes were much different - the society was divided among a wealthy, hereditary ruling class, a lesser sort of commoner or middle class, and a whole lot of slaves.  Slavery, though, was something one could buy one's way out of, and conversely find oneself in as the consequence of debt.   It's interesting to see also the reference to status indicators and symbols, something that seems to transcend any cultural boundary, though in this instance is imbued in tattoos - which of course are generally not a traditional indicator of inclusion into our own upper classes. (My late and upright Protestant grandmother would have added anklets and pierced ears to the list, as well...)

The aforementioned head-flattening was also central in conveying and even accessing social status. Says one Anglo observer in 1835: "It is even considered among them a degradation to possess a round head, and one whose caput has happened to be neglected in his infancy, can never become even a subordinate chief in his tribe, and is treated with indifference and disdain, as one who is unworthy a place amongst them."  Apparently you just can't shatter a glass ceiling with a round head; it's a conehead's world...


How much would you pay for a night with this woman?

Well, on a semi-sexy note, apparently those six aforementioned "squars" did succeed in securing some goods for a little nooky, though the Journals' narrative indicates the exchange was not limited exclusively to sex and trade goods.  Writes Meriwether Lewis upon encountering the six ladies yet again on March 15, 1806:

we were visited this afternoon by Delashshelwilt a Chinnook Chief his wife and six women of his nation which the old baud his wife had brought for market.  this was the same party that had communicated the venerial to so many of our party in November last, and of which they have finally recovered.  I therefore gave the men a particular charge with rispect to them which they promised me to observe.  late this evening we were also visited by Catel a Clatsop man  and his family.  he brought a canoe and a Sea Otter Skin for sale neither of which we purchased this evening.  The Clatsops who had brought a canoe for sale last evening left us early this morning.
Oh dear! A bit of a disaster, really!  Every one's got the clap - the treatment for which at the time is mercury.  But fortunately lessons are learned, so writes Meriwether Lewis on March 17, 1806:


Old Delashelwilt and his women still remain   they have formed a ca[m]p near the fort and seem to be determined to lay close s[i]ege to us but I believe  notwithstanding every effort of their winning graces, the men have preserved their constancy to the vow of celibacy which they made on this occasion to Capt. C. and myself.  we have had our perogues prepared for our departure, and shal set out as soon as the weather will permit.

Personally I am wondering how these men could have found the wherewithal to lay with some freaky flat-headed, tatted-up, swollen-leg gals - but I guess pussy is another of those things that transcends cultural borders.  Generally as long as it isn't tattooed or flattened.  Though in the defense of the ladies, there is always something to be said for tenacity...

- a.t.s.


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